Authored by Marwa A Ali*
Abstract
Barki wool as a coarse wool is considered one of the existing materials in the Egyptian environment, which its different properties have not exploited properly yet, especially the mechanical. Where only the defects of its own are seen like fiber wrinkling, harshness and irregularity of micron, so its usage only limited on the handmade carpet or the weft yarns that used in the mechanical floor coverings. The research is aiming to study the difference properties between Barki wool as a local material and Merino wool as an imported material, improving properties and utilizing of local wool properties to make multi-uses fabrics which different from its usual uses. Barki and Merino wool blended with woolen polyester, two ratios were used of Barki/polyester (30:70)% and (45:55)% to produce samples, and one ratio was used of Merino/polyester (45:55)% for comparing, all produced samples were weaved by twill 2/2 weave structure. The produced samples were evaluated by mechanical and physical properties, statistically was analyzed by variance analysis (ANOVA) with General Linear Model (GLM) of SAS and differences between means were tested using Duncan’s multiple range test. It was concluded that the blending ratios of wool and polyester to produce the samples significantly affected on all physical and mechanical properties for samples. In addition, the values of mechanical properties of samples produced from Barki wool increased, while the values of the physical properties of samples produced from Merino wool increased.
Keywords: Coarse; Barki wool; Woven fabric; Merino wool; Mechanical properties
Introduction
In Egypt, there is a significant increase in the total amount of wool produced during the last 10 years from 4530 tons in 2003 to 12500 tons in 2013 [1]. Barki sheep breed is one of the three major sheep breeds in Egypt. Its predominant distribution is the northwestern coastal zone (NWCZ) of Egypt [2]. Barki sheep has a white body and a brown or black head, the color of the head may extend to cover the neck; a white color of head may be rarely. Its legs are usually colored or spotted [3]. Barki wool is processed into low quality woolens and blended with other types of wool [4].
Barki fleece wool was subdivided into three grades; 13.4% fine, 72% medium and 14.6% strong. Grades of wool subjectively are varying according to the fiber handlings harshness and fineness that lead to improved quality during industrial processes. However, it was suggested the fine wool grade to produce apparel and knitted yarns. Mostly, the difference of longitudinal micron of wool fibers is the main factor to reject the local wool by manufacturers, therefore, most of their products are used by the lower class of society or desert residents [5,6].
Generally, Wool fiber has a good thermal insulation either in state of wet or with moisture regains at a certain temperature and relative humidity. Whereas, it is absorbing more moisture than cotton, before becoming saturated, and causing the sensation of wet cling on the skin [7].
Many times, it was needed to mix between different materials to obtain the specific properties. Blended yarn has several types of fibers (two or more constituents) blended, which is completely unique [8]. The blended spinning technique depended on the fiber length (staple length) of material in case of natural material such as cotton and wool [9].
Polyester is one of the most common man-made fibers; it is cheap and has easy-care and excellent washing properties and wearing appearance. So, it was used in textile industries to improve the durability and uniformity. When polyester is proposed to contact with skin in a cloth, it is usually treated to improve its wicking ability. Blending wool fiber and polyester fiber had improved moisture management properties compared to fabrics in wool fiber without blending [7]. Adding the polyester fibers to coarse and fine Barki wool grades led to improve yarn strength properties [10].
Merino Sheep is one of the oldest and strongest breeds during the summer and freezing winter around the world. Now, it was breed mainly in New Zealand and Australia. Merino Sheep produces the finest and smoothest fibers comparing with all wools; it is the perfect performance fabric for the 21st Century. The Merino wool fabrics were produced with different weights began from 150 g/m2 for very light fabrics to 250 g/m2 for heavy fabrics. The garment wool fabric was used the weight between 140- 195 g/m2. Merino wool characterized with light weight, odor buildup resistance, easy washable, quick drying, durability, long lasting and give UV protection when untreated by chemical processes reach to about 50% comparing other materials [11,12].
Polyester wool blended fabric leads to pilling tendency, this property related to different parameters of textile like fiber properties, yarn & fabric structure, finishing processes and blended ratio between the materials. The finer fibers have a lower pilling than coarser fibers. In addition to, the plain-woven structure has less percentage of pills comparing to twill and satin woven structures, which due to the higher intersections for plain structure [13].
The research aims to study the properties of produced multiuses fabrics with coarse Egyptian Barki wool that blended with woolen polyester, other than floor coverings. In order to improve the added value for its properties and higher the economic value for local wool. Moreover, the quality of produced Barki/polyester fabrics was evaluated by comparing with the most used and widespread wool Merino/polyester with similar to one of the two ratios used for Barki/polyester and the same weave structure for all produced samples.
Materials and Methods
Materials
Barki wool was collected from the Mariout Research Station, belonging to the Desert Research Center, Egypt, during the shearing season 2015. The wool was graded subjectively by visual assessment on a sorting table to separate the fine wool fleeces. Then, they were carried out the scouring and carding processes for fine Barki wool fleeces, Barki wool was used in this search classified as fine wool as shown in Table 1.
Merino350® wool is an imported textile material that used in the clothing industry, it was used the medium grade of Merino. Woolen polyester is a common material used when blended with wool. The two materials were brought from Misr Spinning and Weaving Company, Al-Mahalla Al-Kubra, Egypt.
Methods
Two samples of woven fabrics were produced from Barki wool blended with woolen polyester in the spinning step with different ratios as (45:55) % and (30:70)%. One sample produced from Marino wool blended with woolen polyester by (45:55)% ratio, all produced blends manufacture by semi-worsted system into yarns. All produced samples fabric weaved by inversed twill 2/2woven structure; Table 2 presents the specification of produced samples.
The sample weaved from Merino wool that the most common among the different types of wool in global blended with woolen polyester. It has been produced with a blended ratio similar to one of the two blended ratios of Barki wool with woolen polyester, as well as one fabric weave structure used for all samples produced to help in evaluating for the different properties between the two types of wool.
Evaluation tests
All produced samples were evaluated by mechanical and physical properties; they were put in the standard atmospheric conditions for 24 hours before testing according to ISO-139.The tests which carried out on produced samples as follows; tensile strength &elongation of fabrics according to ASTM-D5035-11, stiffness resistance according to ASTM-D1388-96,abrasion resistance by loss in weight indication according to ASTM-D4158-08, shrinkage of fabric AATCC 135, pilling test fabric was estimated by ICI pill box tester, fabric thickness according to ASTM-D1777-96, air permeability according to ASTM-D737-96, water permeability was measured according to ASTM-D 461, and electrostatic charges were determined according to ASTM-D 4238 and the test was performed using FMX-003TM Electrostatic field meter, there are three grades for evaluating the static electricity on the surface of various materials as shown in Table 3./p>.
Statistical analysis
The test results were statistically analyzed by analysis of variance (ANOVA) with General Linear Model (GLM) of SAS (2001) [15] and differences between means were tested using Duncan’s multiple range test [16]. The significance level was set at P = 0.05 and P = 0.01. In addition to, it was pointed to order of the bestproduced samples by radar chart area.
Results and Discussion
The various results were presented for the mechanical and physical properties of the produced samples, and the difference between the properties of wool types used were cleared.
Effect the ratio and types of wool on the mechanical and physical properties
Tensile strength and elongation properties: Figure 2 shows that the tensile strength for warp and weft yarn direction, the samples that produced with Barki/polyester gave high value of tensile strength comparing with the sample produced from Merino/polyester, especially in warp direction that affected with the weft yarns. Also, the increasing of polyester ratio in the produced samples led to increase in the value of strength, this is due to the tenacity of polyester material and this result is agreed with previous investigations [17,18], and the density of warp yarns in these two samples also affected on them as a high strength. It was reported by Helal, et al. that an increase of polyester ratio from 25% to 35% or 40% led to a slight increase in yarn elongation. However, differences were not significant [10].
The elongation is varying between the produced samples as shown in Figure 3. The samples produced with Barki/polyester achieved higher elongation value than the sample produce Merino/ polyester especially in weft direction; this is may be due to the yarn count of Barki wool yarns and high fiber diameter of its grades.
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